Category Archives: Need to Know Cosmetics Info

Silicones: Do They Clog Your Pores?

siliconesSilicones.  They’re either loved or hated. They’ve been demonized and they’ve been praised. Most notably, they’ve been accused of being comedogenic; meaning that they will clog your pores leading to acne breakouts. But is this true?  Today we will separate fact from fiction and learn the truth about silicones and their role in the beauty and skin care industry.

Fact Versus Fiction:

Silicones are class of chemicals known as ‘polymers’. Two basic elements make up silicones: silicon and oxygen, chemically written as SiO.  Silicon is 14th on the periodic table and is the 2nd most abundant element on earth.

Silicones DO NOT clog pores or enter the bloodstream via cosmetics, nor do they bioaccumulate in humans and animals.  The molecule is too large to enter the pore just as in the case of petroleum jelly and is too large to pass through the cell membrane (necessary for bioaccumulation to occur).  However, silicones can INCREASE the penetration of other ingredients in a formula and if these other ingredients are pore cloggers and irritants, then those are the culprits for breakouts, NOT the silicone(s).  On the flip side, if a formula contains non-comedogenic ingredients that are extremely beneficial to the skin, silicones will help to penetrate them and this is excellent news. Time and time again, silicones in studies have been shown to actually INCREASE the healing of acne lesions and DECREASE the occurence of acne scarring.  Silicones also lessen the time it takes for wounds to heal.

Silicones are non-irritating, non-sensitizing and they are extremely resistant to oxidation (they won’t go rancid). They are hostile towards microbial and bacterial growth which makes them an excellent wound-healing agent. Silicones are non-allergenic as well-they do not react with the body’s immune system. They are now being used as a replacement for latex (a very allergenic substance) in a wide variety of applications and are also used in treating Atopic Dermatitis and Eczema.

Another rumour circulating via internet pseudo science is that silicones ‘act as a plastic wrap’ and do not allow the skin to breathe. Absolutely false.  Silicones do NOT suffocate the skin trapping bacteria and sweat, as most people have been led to believe via internet scare-mongering and fear tactics. Silicones actually allow for oxygen, nitrogen and water vapors to pass freely, also known as a ‘vapor permeable’ barrier.  What silicones DO do is to prevent TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss): a leading cause of dry and dehydrated skin.  The skin barrier is protected when silicones are applied topically.  Protecting the stratum corneum is critical to skin health.

Silicones do NOT trap sebum (facial oil).  They actually help to absorb excess oil and produce a mattifying effect to the skin.  Silicones can blur the look of fine lines and enlarged pores. This is highly desirable amongst cosmetics users who have oily skin, large pores and are frustrated by oily breakthrough and their makeup not lasting throughout the day.

Silicones ARE biodegradable.  They are not clogging up our environment, such as in the case of plastics.  Silicones will break down into water, silicic acid and carbon dioxide.  Low molecular weight silicones such as Cyclopentasiloxane will break down faster than higher weight silicones such as Dimethicone.  Nonetheless, ALL silicones biodegrade and studies have proven that no adverse effects were discovered to soil micororganisims or plant life that was treated with soil containing high levels of silicones.

As you can clearly see, silicones in the use of cosmetics have gotten a bad rap, and for no good reason and without a shred of scientific proof. Those individuals demonizing silicones are simply uninformed and they continue to perpetuate false rumours which only confuses consumers.

The bottom line is this:

  • Silicones are non-comedogenic & non-acnegenic.  They DO NOT clog pores  OR cause acne breakouts.
  • Silicones are non-irritating & non-sensitizing.
  • Silicones are non-allergenic. They DO NOT cause allergic reactions.
  • Silicones ARE breathable.
  • Silicones are biodegradable.

References:
1. http://www.educatedtherapists.com/dimethicone-in-skin-care-separating-fact-from-fiction/ 

2. http://www.skininc.com/skinscience/ingredients/12-Silicone-Myths-Exploded-269445911.html 

 

Do YOU Know What You’re Really Putting On Your Face?

A friend and fellow esthetican, Valerie Tukey, recently posted some very interesting information on one of Lancome's popular anti-aging creams.  You'll be shocked when you discover that you're paying top dollar for GARBAGE.  You can check out Val's Face Book Fan Page here: Aesthetics By Valerie.

Lancome 

"I used to work for Lancome. And then I went to school and became a licensed, board certified skin care professional who actually knows a thing or two about skin and skin care. Would you ask a parrot to give you skin care advice? No? Are you sure about that? Because that's what you're doing when you buy skin care at department store or at the mall. Everything you're told is well-scripted information that is being "parrotted" back to you by sales people. Let me repeat that –  SALES PEOPLE.    

Let's take a look at what's really in one of the best selling products at Lancome. 

At the whopping price of $80 for a 1.7 oz cream and $95 for a 2 oz, you'd expect this stuff to not only make your skin younger, but for it to cook you dinner and do your laundry!

The truth is, while this cream smells delightful fragrant and oh-so-French, while it feels like butter going onto your skin, while it often comes with a groovy free gift, it's a very VERY overpriced face grease. 

Not only does it NOT contain any cutting edge, modern and proven age-fighting ingredients, it DOES contain TONS OF PRESERVATIVES. Holy canolies, half way down the ingredient list is a potent anti-microbial, and then they added another 5 paraben preservatives.  

Seriously, Lancome? Really?! Why is that? Oh wait, I remember…It's because often we'd have product sitting on the shelves for up to 12 months before it was sold. Gotta make sure there's no mold in that year-old cream that Mrs. Jane Q. Public might want to buy so she can get her lousy free gift. 

Newsflash: the free gift ain't free. Part of the cost of your $95 pays for that gift. Comprende, amiga? I mean, really, what are you thinking? How do you expect poor Lancome to pay for that big expensive counter and all the staff? And their uniforms, their salaries, their 4 times a year allowance for makeup? Oh, don't forget the multiple full-page advertisements in Allure and Cosmo, and the commercials, and wait! You gotta pay Gweneth Paltrow and the supermodel for being spokespeople!  Don't forget the pretty packaging; the expensive glass jars and metallic lids that you'll toss in the trash. 

You're paying $95 for silicone, some basic emollients, emulsifiers, vaseline, corn oil, vitamin E, a ton of preservatives, fragrance, and dyes. WOW, what a deal!" :( 

See for yourself: 

WATER/AQUA – self explanatory

HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE – synthetic polymer skin conditioner 

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE – a form of silicone, used for slip

PETROLATUM – also known as Vaseline

CETYL ALCOHOL – fatty alcohol used as an emollient

GLYCERIN – a humectant, attracts water to the skin

GLYCERYL STEARATE SE – emulsifier, helps product ingredients blend together

PEG-40 STEARATE waxy solid emollient

MYRISTYL MYRISTATE – skin conditioner (comedogenic)

HYDROXYPROLINE – used to bind water in the skin 

ZEA MAYS KERNEL EXTRACT/ZEA MAYS – CORN!

TO-COPHERYL ACETATE – vitamin E

SODIUM HYDROXIDE – regulates pH level

STEARIC ACID – emulsifier

CAFFEINE – used to enhance skin's appearance by reducing flaking and enhancing suppleness 

ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE – protects the product from UV degradation

CHLORHEXIDINE DIGLUCONATE – powerful antimicrobial 

SORBITAN TRISTEARATE – emulsifier 

 DISODIUM EDTA- a form of preservative, a chelator

RUSCUS ACULEATUS ROOT EXTRACT/RUSCUS ACULEATUS – butcher's broom extract, an anti inflammatory 

METHYLSILANOL MANNURONATE – emmolient

SOYBEAN PROTEIN/GLYCINE SOJA – skin conditioner 

PALMITIC ACID – emulsifier

ETHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, ISOBUTYLPARABEN, METHYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN, 5 paraben preservatives! 

FRAGRANCE / PARFUM, fragrance 

BLUE 1/CI 42090, YELLOW 5/CI 19140, RED 4/CI 14700, B5949/2 – colorants

QUESTION: What are your thoughts on this article?  Let me know by leaving your comments below!

Thanks for stopping by!

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach

It’s Official- Indoor Tanning Beds DO Cause Cancer

It's 100% official now…

Tanning Bed The International Agency for Research on Cancer (iarc.fr), which advises the World Health Organization, upped the anty on its warnings about indoor tanning beds after this summer's findings were reported.  The warning about using tanning beds and lamps went from "probably carcinogenic (cancer-causing) to humans to carcinogenic to humans".

The findings that were reviewed indicated that melanoma cancer, the most aggressive form of skin cancer, rates were 75% higher in those individuals who started using tannings beds before the age of 30.

Whoa, those are some scary statistics and like smoking, they are COMPLETELY avoidable. 

If want a nice healthy glow WITHOUT jeopardizing your health, opt for easy self-tanning products like one of my favorites, Tan Towel.  You may also want to consider using a bronzer such as PRIIA's Vacation In A Jar.  It's easy to apply, looks totally natural, won't turn you a funky orange tone plus it's extremely economical because only a few sprinkles are needed to achieve the perfect color everytime.

One last word of advice- ALWAYS wear a daily SPF no matter if it's winter, spring, summer or fall.  Whenever you're exposed to the sun, your skin is absorbing harmful UV rays increasing your chances of skin cancer and speeding up the rate at which your skin ages.

Related Posts: Stay Younger Looking By Staying AWAY from Indoor Tanning Beds

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach

Makeup Trends…Are You A Follower???

Each season there is a plethora of new color trends that emerge.  For Fall 2009 eyes, purple is HOT as well as dark greens, browns and other forest colors.  Also, metallics such as gold and bronze are adding interesting possibilities while still keeping the look uber feminine.  For the lips, beautiful deep berries and reds are on the scene as well as nudes.

The key to making Fall 2009 makeup trends work for you is to either play up the eyes OR emphasize the lips- one or the other.

Here's a few key Fall 2009 colors by PRIIA Cosmetics that can help you create a beautiful makeup palette this season.

Mineral Satin Shadows for the eyes:

Tn__MG_1141b Sapphire Gem Tn__MG_1141a Wacky Khaki Tn__MG_1151b Chilled Grapes

    Sapphire Gem    Wacky Khaki   Chilled Grapes    

Tn__MG_1151a Chocolate Binge

  Chocolate Binge

Tn__MG_1144a Bronze Medal Tn__MG_1129a Gold Finger 
Bronze Medal   Gold Finger

About 2 Pout Natural Lip Gloss:

Tn__MG_1007c DRAGON FRUIT  Tn__MG_1002c Naked Kiss Tn__MG_1003a CHA CHA CHERRY 

 Dragon Fruit   Naked Kiss   Cha Cha Cherry

Question:  Do you follow seasonal makeup trends or do you like to just stick to what you currently wear?  Let me know…I'd love to hear from you!  Thank you.

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Trace Amounts of Lead in Lipstick is ‘OK’ According to the FDA?

Dark Lipstick A recent study by the FDA, published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, has concluded that trace amounts of lead found in lipstick is deemed to be acceptable.  The Campaign For Safe Cosmetics says ANY level of lead is dangerous to consumers.

What does this mean?  Simply put, the amount of lead particles found in various brands of lipstick tested are such a negligible amount, the FDA says there's no cause for health concerns.  Hhhmmm…

Where do the lead particles come from?  Well, first you must understand that cosmetic manufacturers are NOT adding lead to their lipstick formulas.  Instead, it's considered a 'contaminant' of the formula & manufacturing process.  The particles seem to be coming from either lead-containing solder (as a part of the refining process for pigments) and also from the paint found on the actual refining equipment itself.

I'd like to know YOUR thoughts on this topic… 

Question: Do you think the FDA is doing a diservice to the American public?  Should we be concerned about such small amounts of this compound in lipsticks?  Please leave your thoughts in the comments box below.

Thanks for visiting & sharing your thoughts with me!

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The Truth About Layering Sun Protection Products

Recently I was asked if layering products that contained different levels of SPF would protect the skin better from sun damage.

SunBlockFace My answer was "No". 

A lot of people tend to think that if they put on a product, such as a moisturizer, that contains an SPF15 and then they apply another product, such as makeup foundation, that contains SPF10, that their skin is being protected now with a total of SPF25.  This is not true.  You're skin is only protected up to the extent of the highest rating of one product.  In this case, it would be an SPF15.  Believing a misconception like this not only gives you a false sense of security, but it opens the door for a lot of sun damage to occur and increases your risk of skin cancer.

Your best bet: wear a daily broad spectrum SPF30 that also contains antioxidants which help to protect the skin from free radical damage.

Enjoy your summer safely!

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FDA Warns Consumers of ‘High Levels’ Of Disease-Causing Organisims in Certain Hand Sanitizers

On Monday, The Food and Drug Administration issued a press release warning consumers not to use skin products manufactured by Clarcon Biological Chemistry Laboratory, Inc. located in Roy, Utah.  Upon a recent inspection of Clarcon, certain disease-causing bacteria were found to be present in Bacteria some of their skin protectants and skin sanitizers.

Consumers should NOT use any Clarcon products and should discard them immediately, warned FDA officials.  Clarcon has issued a voluntary recall of these products.

According to the FDA, "Analyses of several samples of over-the-counter topical antimicrobial skin sanitizer and skin protectants revealed high levels of various bacteria, including some associated with various unsanitary conditions, according to the agency.  Some of these bacteria can cause opportunistic infections of the skin and underlying tissues and could result in medical or surgical attention as well as permanent damage."

This is particularly concerning to the FDA because the products are being promoted as 'antimicrobial agents that claim to treat open wounds and damaged skin and protect against various infectious diseases'.  Claims like these fall under the category of a drug rather than an OTC (over-the-counter) product.  The FDA has also revealed that Clarcon has seriously deviated from the FDA's Good Manufacturing Requirements.  Thus far, calls to Clarcon have gone unanswered.

The following products manufactured by Clarcon SHOULD BE DISCARDED IMMEDIATELY:

  • Citrushield Lotion, Dermasentials DermaBarrier, Dermasentials by Clarcon, Antimicrobial Hand Sanitizer, Iron Fist Hand Treatment, Skin Shield Restaurant, Skin Shield Industrial, Skin Shield Beauty Salon Lotion, Total Skin Care Beauty and Total Skin Care Work.

*As a side note, parents are strongly cautioned about letting small children use hand sanitizer of any Kids Handwashing kind due to the possibilty of accidental ingestion causing alcohol poisoning.  These products should be kept out of reach of children.  If you are going to let your child use hand sanitizers, make sure you are the one dispensing the product and that the product is fully absorbed before they leave your sight.  For more information about this, click here.

Question: Do you use hand sanitizers or do you prefer good old-fashioned handwashing as means of killing germs?  If you use hand sanitizers, does the Clarcon incident make you want to reconsider your choice?  Let me know by leaving a comment below…Thank you!

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Do You Get a Rush From Makeup?

A recent study by Japanese cosmetics giant, Kanebo, revealed that women actually experience a 'rush' prior to applying their makeup.  The project used brain scanning equipment on study volunteers that showed women experienced a wave of euphoria and optimism as they prepped to apply their makeup.

What does this mean?

Excited woman Study findings are being interpreted as that when women are preparing to apply their makeup, they are excited by what they imagine themselves to look like afterwards.  Basically, it all comes down to self image and how a woman perceives herself with and without makeup. 

Armed with this information now, scientists can translate this data into helping cosmetics manufacturers create personal care products that appeal to consumers through enhanced emotional value.  Manufacturers and marketers of color cosmetics now know the exact reason why women wear makeup and how it makes them feel about their image.

Ok, I have to interject here…

I probably could have saved these scientists millions in research dollars.  Why?  Because if they would have only asked me (no need to hook me up to electrodes) if I get a 'rush' prior to applying my makeup, I would have answered with a resounding "YES"!  When I know that I can make those dark circles and large pores disappear like magic with just a few strokes of a brush, of course it makes me happy!  This is especially so when I'm trying a new cosmetic product for the first time; especially lip products.  I am a self-confessed lip gloss junky and I'm proud to admit it!

Question: What about you? Have you ever taken notice of your feelings or thoughts prior to putting on your 'daily face'?  I'd love to know if you feel the same as or different from me.  Leave a comment in the form below.  Thank you!

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The Top 5 Makeup Mistakes That Make You Look Older Than You Are

We all want to look our best for however long we can.  But, sometimes simple makeup mistakes can really ageConfused woman us well beyond our years.  Here's my Top 5 List of "age unfriendly" makeup mistakes and what you can do to correct them.

1) Uneven skin tone- This doesn't necessarily have anything to do with wrinkles, but more so the appearance of the skin itself.  The best way to correct this mistake is to choose the correct shade of foundation.  Need help doing this?  Click here for more information.

2) Dark Lipstick- Vampy lips are fine in your 20's and even possibly even 30's, but even then, dark colors will make you look older.  Go for the gloss instead and head towards warm colors of lipsticks.  If you want to wear a deeper shade of lipstick, be sure to apply a shimmer gloss over lipstick for an extra sexy pout.

3) Wearing the wrong colors- Choosing warm colors like apricot, champagne, peach and soft warm brown are a no-brainer.  They instantly warm up the face.  When choosing darker, cooler colors, do so sparingly and be sure to add some warm colors into the mix.  For example, do a smoky eye look with deep shades of gray & plumb but warm the rest of the face with apricot blush and a light, shimmery peach lip gloss.

4) Bad blush choices- The best rule of thumb for blush color is to never choose a color that is darker than what you would naturally flush to.  Don't know what you would naturally flush to?  Exercise for 20 minutes and then check the mirror.  Also, be sure to apply your blush with a medium to large fluffy brush for a natural look.  Add a "pop" of color to the apples of the cheeks for an instant pick-me-up.

5) Uncurled lashes- Want an INSTANT facelift?  Then curl your lashes! Nothing perks up your face better and makes it look more alive than beautifully curled lashes.  Doing so opens up the entire eye area and gives an instant 'lift' to the face.

Question: Are you gulity of making any of these mistakes?  I was!  I wasn't curling my lashes and when I finally started to, the compliments about my hazel eyes started flying in.  Don't be shy…Tell me your beauty blunder(s).  Leave a comment!

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-The Mineral Makeup Coach